Smart home, done properly

Your house, doing the obvious things by itself.

Lights that know the time of day. A door you can open for the maid without handing over a key. Curtains on a schedule. We design and install it on your existing wiring — and we leave the ordinary wall switches working.

  • No rewiring in most homes. Modules fit behind the switch plates you already have.
  • One app for everything, not four — and it keeps working when the internet is down.
  • Engineers, not resellers. The same team builds industrial IoT at iTechGeeks.

Start with one question

What is the thing about your home that actually annoys you? Getting up to switch off the lights, never knowing who rang the bell, the AC running all night — start there, not with a product list.

If you are not sure yet, say roughly what you have in mind — that is a normal starting point.

We use your details only to answer this enquiry. No newsletter, no passing them on.

See it before you buy it

Here is a home with all of it fitted

Turn it around. Click any pin to find out what that device actually does and what to check before buying it. Then switch the scene and watch what the house does on its own at each time of day.

Scene

A 2 BHK of about 950 sq ft, with nineteen devices in it. This is the list the interactive version is built from — every item below is a real decision we would talk through at a survey.

Balcony

Cameras

Outdoor camera

One camera covering the approach does most of the work. We would rather put one good camera where it matters than six cheap ones around a flat.

  • Local recording first, cloud as the backup — not the other way round
  • Indoor cameras in living spaces are a household conversation, not a technical one

Living room

Lighting

Living room lighting

One switch module in the wall box controls the whole circuit, however many downlights are on it. The module sits behind the plate you already have, so the switch on the wall still works exactly as it does now.

  • One module per circuit is usually cheaper than one smart bulb per fitting
  • Dimming depends on the driver in your lights — worth testing one before buying for the house
Lighting

The wall switch, still working

This is the part people do not expect. The module hides inside the box; the plate on the wall is unchanged. Guests, parents and anyone who has never opened the app carry on pressing the same switch.

  • The app always knows the real state, even when someone used the wall switch
  • Needs a neutral wire in the box — a ten-minute check before you buy anything
Curtains

Living room curtains

A motor on the track, driven by a schedule or a scene. The useful setting is not opening them from your phone — it is having them close by themselves at sunset without anyone thinking about it.

  • Needs a power point near the track, which an occupied flat often does not have
  • Pull the fabric by hand and a good motor takes over and finishes the run
Climate

Air conditioning

A small infrared bridge learns your existing remote. No new AC, no wiring. It gives the unit you already own a schedule, and lets a rule turn it off when a door is left open.

  • Raising the setpoint two degrees at 3am saves a lot and nobody notices
  • Works with almost any unit that has an infrared remote
Audio & TV

TV and speakers

Pulled into the same scenes as everything else, so "movie" dims the lights, closes the curtains and switches the input in one tap instead of three remotes.

  • This is a convenience layer — we would not start a project here
  • Speakers need Wi-Fi bandwidth, so they stay off the low-power mesh

Kitchen

Lighting

Kitchen lighting

Bright and cool while someone is cooking, and part of the goodnight scene that sweeps the whole flat so nobody has to walk around checking.

  • Under-cabinet strips are the one place a separate circuit is worth it
  • Steam and grease are hard on touch panels — ordinary plates last better here
Sensors

Water leak sensor

A puck on the floor behind the sink or the washing machine. It costs very little, it does nothing for years, and the once it goes off it pays for the entire installation several times over.

  • Battery lasts a year or two on the low-power mesh
  • Can shut a motorised valve as well as send the alert, if one is fitted
Sensors

Gas and smoke detection

Mounted at the right height for the gas you actually have — LPG sinks, so the sensor goes low; piped gas rises, so it goes high. Getting that wrong is the most common installation error we see.

  • Alerts the phone, and can cut the exhaust fan circuit in or out
  • Test it on the schedule printed on the unit, not when you remember

Entrance

Doors

Main door lock

The real value is not unlocking from the office. It is that the cook has a code that works between six and eight, and when the cook changes you delete a code rather than change a lock.

  • Keep a physical key override — batteries do run out
  • Measure door thickness, lock type, backset and handing before ordering
Cameras

Video doorbell

The device that earns its place fastest in an Indian flat, for an unglamorous reason: deliveries. See and speak to whoever is there, from anywhere, and tell them where to leave the parcel.

  • Wired to the existing bell transformer where there is one, battery where there is not
  • Check it has local recording as well as cloud, so a lapsed subscription is not a blind door
Sensors

Entrance motion sensor

At night this brings the passage up to about ten per cent rather than full glare. It is consistently the automation people are most pleased with and least likely to have asked for.

  • Brightness follows the time of day, so it is dim at 3am and normal at 7pm
  • Also tells the system nobody has moved for hours, which "away" mode uses
The hub

The hub

The box that holds the schedules, the scenes and the rules. Because they live here rather than in a data centre, an internet outage costs you remote access and nothing else — the house carries on.

  • Buy more hub than you need now; it is the hardest part to change later
  • Put it somewhere central and wired, not in a corner behind the router
Energy

Energy monitoring

A clamp at the distribution board that shows where the units are actually going. Usually the answer is the geyser and the AC, and usually it is more than people guess.

  • Most useful in the first month, when it changes a habit or two
  • Per-circuit monitoring tells you much more than a single whole-home figure

Main bedroom

Lighting

Bedroom lighting

The one that sells the whole idea: turning off every light in the flat without getting out of bed. Two-way control from the bedside and the door, without running new wires for a second switch.

  • A bedside button is worth more here than any app
  • Warm dimming in the evening is worth more than colour
Climate

Bedroom AC control

On fifteen minutes before you usually get into bed, so the room is comfortable rather than cold and then warm again. Off automatically if the balcony door is opened.

  • Pairs with the door sensor so you are not cooling the corridor
  • The 3am setpoint change is where the saving actually is
Curtains

Bedroom curtains

Opening at seven changes your mornings more than any light does. If you only motorise one room, this is the room.

  • Blackout fabric is heavy — the motor has to be specified for the weight
  • A sunrise opening plus a gentle lamp beats an alarm clock

Bathroom

Sensors

Bathroom sensor and exhaust

Light on when someone walks in, and the exhaust fan carries on for ten minutes after they leave — which is exactly what an exhaust fan should do and almost never does.

  • Humidity-triggered is better than timed if the sensor supports it
  • Keep a manual override; a sensor that gets the shower wrong is infuriating

Second bedroom

Lighting

Second bedroom

Often the room to leave until later. If it is a study or a child's room it earns automation; if it is the guest room it can wait, usually indefinitely.

  • Wire the box for it now even if you fit the module next year
  • A desk here is a better argument for good lighting than the bed is
The honest version

Three ways to do this, and what each one costs you

We are one of these three. It is worth knowing when the other two are the better answer.

Do it yourself

Buy retail smart bulbs and plugs, set them up with the maker's app.

GOOD

  • Cheapest to start
  • No waiting for anyone
  • Easy to expand a bit at a time

LESS GOOD

  • Several apps that do not talk to each other
  • Wall switches stop working with smart bulbs
  • Nobody to call when it stops
What we do

A planned retrofit

Modules behind existing switches, one system, installed and handed over.

GOOD

  • One app for the whole house
  • Normal switches keep working
  • Someone is accountable for it working

LESS GOOD

  • Costs more than DIY
  • Needs a day or two of access to the house

A high-end control system

Proprietary systems specified by an architect or AV consultant.

GOOD

  • Very capable
  • Handles large properties and complex AV well

LESS GOOD

  • Several times the cost
  • Usually tied to one dealer for changes
  • Overkill for a flat
How a project runs

From a phone call to a working house

Tell us about the home

A phone call or a form is enough. What matters at this point is the size of the place, whether it is occupied, and what is annoying you.

Site survey

We look at the switch boxes, check whether there is a neutral wire, see where the router sits and how the signal reaches the far rooms. This is where a realistic plan comes from.

A written proposal

What goes where, which products, what it costs, and what we are deliberately leaving out. You should be able to take this to anyone else for comparison.

See all six steps

Before you buy anything

Six things that catch people out

We would rather you knew these before spending money, even if you end up doing it yourself.

Buying the devices before checking the wiring

Many smart switch modules need a neutral wire at the switch box. Plenty of older Indian wiring does not have one. This is the single most common reason a box of devices sits unused.

Smart bulbs behind ordinary switches

If someone turns the wall switch off, the bulb is dead — no app, no voice, no schedule. It catches every household out at least once.

Everything on Wi-Fi

Thirty Wi-Fi devices on a home router is how you end up with a network that drops. Zigbee and similar protocols exist for exactly this reason.

One brand's app per device type

Four apps for four kinds of device is how most self-built systems end up, and it is why they stop getting used.

No plan for the internet going down

A system that needs the cloud to turn a light on is a system that fails during an outage. Local control should be the default, with the cloud as a bonus.

Nobody showed the household how it works

If only one person in the house can operate it, it will be switched back to manual within a month.

Rough scope

What would your home need?

This gives you the scope — how many devices a home your size typically needs. We quote only after a survey, because the wiring decides the price far more than the floor area does.

A 2 BHK, starting small

    Get this quoted properly
    Questions

    The ones we get asked most

    In most homes, no. Modules go into the existing switch boxes behind the plates you already have. The one thing that decides it is whether there is a neutral wire at the switch box — older wiring often brings only the live wire to the switch. If yours does not have one, there are devices that work without it, or an electrician can bring one; either way we tell you at the survey, before you have spent anything.

    Yes, and we treat that as non-negotiable. A house where the lights only respond to a phone is a house that annoys everyone who is not holding the phone. With smart switch modules the plate on the wall keeps working exactly as it does now, and the app, schedules and voice are additions on top of it.

    The lights, switches, scenes and schedules keep working, because the hub in your home runs them locally. What you lose is control from outside the house and anything that genuinely depends on a cloud service, such as a camera stream to your phone while you are away. We design it this way deliberately: a system that cannot turn a light on during an outage is not finished.

    A flat being retrofitted is usually one to two days, and we work room by room so the house stays livable. A large house, or one where curtain motors and new points are involved, takes longer. The survey gives you a real number rather than a guess, and it goes in the written proposal.

    Partly, and it is worth knowing where the line is. Smart bulbs, plugs, a plug-in camera and battery sensors are all removable and leave nothing behind, so they are fine. Switch modules go inside the switch box, which is usually a landlord conversation, though they are removable too and the original switch goes back. A smart lock replaces the existing lock, so that definitely needs the landlord. We can plan a package that is entirely reversible if you expect to move.

    That is what happens when a home is assembled device by device from whatever was on offer, and it is the main reason self-built systems stop getting used. We build around one hub and one app so the whole house is in one place, and scenes can combine lights, curtains and the AC in a single tap. Where a device genuinely has to keep its own app — some cameras do — we tell you up front.

    The realistic risks are not the dramatic ones. They are weak passwords, a device sitting on the internet because a port was forwarded, and firmware nobody ever updates. We put devices on a separate network where the router allows it, do not expose anything to the internet directly, use the manufacturer two-factor login where it exists, and hand you a short written note on keeping it that way. Local-first control also shrinks the attack surface, because less of your home is reachable from outside it.

    Bring them to the survey. Some will fit the plan, some will work but only through their own app, and some will not play with anything else at all. We will tell you honestly which is which rather than quietly pricing in replacements.

    You do. The hub is yours, the accounts are in your name, and the documentation we leave includes everything needed for someone else to work on it. We think a company that holds your logins hostage is telling you something about itself.

    Ask. Travel and logistics decide it, and for a larger project it is often workable. The honest answer depends on where you are, so tell us and we will say yes or no rather than stringing it out.

    The parts that are local — switches, the hub, sensors, scenes — should, and that is one reason we weight a system towards local control. The parts that depend on a manufacturer cloud last as long as that manufacturer chooses to keep it running, which is a real risk with cheap brands and one we factor into what we specify. Nobody can promise you a decade, and anyone who does is guessing.

    Genuinely: for a one-bedroom flat and a handful of lights, not much you could not manage over a weekend with a few hours of reading. What we add is the wiring assessment, one coherent system instead of four apps, a network that holds up under thirty devices, and someone accountable when something stops. If your project is small, we will say so.

    All questions

    Not sure where to start?

    Tell us what is annoying you about the house as it is. That is usually a better starting point than a product list, and it costs nothing to ask.